What is a Bow Tie in a Diamond?

In gemology, a “bow tie” is a dark, shadowy pattern that can appear in certain types of diamonds, particularly those with elongated shapes like oval, pear, and marquise cuts.

The bow tie effect is caused by light blockage, which occurs when the diamond’s facets are not arranged to allow light to reflect evenly throughout the stone. As a result, dark areas can form in the centre of the diamond, resembling the shape of a bow tie.

A bow tie’s presence can significantly impact a diamond’s overall appearance and value. A prominent bow tie can make the diamond look dark and dull, diminishing its sparkle and brilliance. In some cases, the bow tie may be so noticeable that it detracts from the beauty of the stone altogether.

Several factors contribute to the likelihood of a bow tie appearing in a diamond. These include:

  • Cut: The cut is the most significant factor influencing the bow tie effect. Diamonds with elongated shapes, such as ovals, pears, and marquises, are more prone to bow ties due to the way their facets are arranged.
  • Depth: The depth of the diamond, which is the distance from the table (top) of the diamond to the girdle, also plays a role. Diamonds with a shallow depth are more likely to exhibit bow ties.
  • Crown Angle: The crown angle refers to the angle of the facets on the top of the diamond. Diamonds with a steep crown angle tend to have more noticeable bow ties.
  • Light Performance: The overall light performance of the diamond, which is a measure of its ability to reflect and refract light, also influences the bow tie effect. Diamonds with a poor light performance are more likely to have bow ties.

To minimise the risk of purchasing a diamond with a noticeable bow tie, carefully examining the stone under different lighting conditions is crucial. It is also advisable to seek the expertise of a reputable jeweller who can assess the diamond’s cut, depth, crown angle, and light performance.

At Lindendale Diamonds, we pride ourselves on acting as your personal Diamond Concierge, guiding you through the selection process with expertise and care. Here’s how we address various aspects of diamond selection, including the avoidance of flaws like the bow tie effect:

  1. Quality Selection: We prioritise the selection of quality diamonds based on their overall beauty and brilliance. We focus on choosing well-cut diamonds that have a balanced and attractive appearance.
  2. Expert Guidance: Our customers receive expert guidance and education about potential diamond flaws, including the bow tie effect. We explain how it occurs, its impact on the diamond’s appearance, and the variations it can have among different stones, helping you make an informed decision.
  3. Personalised Viewing: We offer the opportunity to view a range of diamonds in person or through high-quality images. This personalised approach allows you to see firsthand how the bow tie effect appears in different stones, enabling you to choose based on your preferences.
  4. Balancing Characteristics: At Lindendale Diamonds, we help you balance crucial diamond characteristics such as cut, colour, clarity, and carat weight. This holistic approach ensures that the diamond you select meets your expectations in terms of both beauty and value.
  5. Customisation Options: For those particularly concerned about the bow tie effect, we offer customisation options. This might include selecting diamond shapes less prone to this effect or working with cutters who specialise in minimising the bow tie in shapes like ovals, pears, and marquises.
  6. Transparency and Education: We believe in transparency regarding the characteristics of each diamond, including any potential flaws. Our approach includes educating customers about how certain features, like the bow tie effect, can contribute to a diamond’s unique beauty, ensuring you are well-informed.
  7. Quality Assurance: Every diamond selected or sold by Lindendale Diamonds undergoes a rigorous quality assurance process. This ensures that each piece meets our high standards, offering you peace of mind, even in diamonds that might exhibit a bow tie effect.

At Lindendale Diamonds, we are committed to ensuring that your diamond selection experience is as flawless as the stones we offer, with a focus on avoiding flaws and inclusions and maximising the beauty and value of your chosen piece.

To find your dream diamond, contact our bespoke team today for personalised service and advice.

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Craig Rosendorff is the founder and Diamond Selection at Lindendale Diamonds. Craig is one of the most experienced independent Jewellers operating in Western Australia. Having entered the industry in 1963, with the sole intention of breaking the mold, providing an alternative to legacy jewellers monopolising the market. Learn more about Craig Rosendorff or connect with him through Linkedin.